De bloomers à tanguinhas, a história da lingerie revela muito sobre o passado,presente e o papel das mulheres ao longo do tempo. Imaginar o quanto lingeries e seu conceito mudaram nos últimos cem anos é fascinante, mesmo porque muitas continuam a exercer a mesma função, ainda que venham em formatos completamente diferentes.
Sem dúvida as roupas de baixo exercem uma importante missão na história do vestuário, principalmente no universo feminino,onde mulheres chegaram a vestir corsets fatais para suas costelas, enfaixaram seus seios para obter um look mais andrógino e até mesmo queimaram sutiãs como uma forma de declaração à liberdade;
(foto: 1860- The Stylist UK)
Da antiga palavra francesa ‘linge’, que significa linho ( linen em inglês), o termo lingerie foi introduzido como uma eufemismo para roupas de baixo escandalosas. Enquanto o termo “lingerie” não foi difundido até os anos 1850, lingerie implicava o termo geral para roupas de baixo que continham ricos detalhes, assim como o lado mais feminino ou lado mais masculino, até mesmo o lado mais prático ou não de utilizar estas vestes.
(Foto: VOGUE Encyclo – 1830)
1830 por sua vez foi um período classificado pelo estilo romântico, com suas típicas cinturas marcadas, saias em formato de sino e mangas bufantes à la doce princesa. Após uma década, o espartilho e a crinolina continuaram a exibir uma mulher sedutora, porém dessa vez enfeitada com babados e fitas.
Apenas em 1850 se inicia a confecção de modelos diferentes de roupas íntimas, desde espartilhos de cetim a espartilhos com bojos e rendas.
(foto: Primeiro corset em formato de sutiã criado por Herminie Caddole- 1889)
Hermione Caddole pode ser chamada de mãe do “corpete para seios”, pois foi a inventora da peça revolucionária em 1889. Essa idéia mudaria completamente os conceitos de suporte, agora tendo o auxílio de alças que se apoiavam nos ombros.
O primeiro modelo de sutiã “contemporâneo”,foi criado por Hermione em uma tentativa de trazer mais conforto as mulheres. Com um tecido à base de algodão e seda, a designer revolucionou o mundo da moda e trouxe o modelo básico de lingerie muito semelhante aos dos dias de hoje.
(foto: 1890 -Stylist UK)
A partir dos anos 1890 as roupas de baixo femininas estavam começando a ganhar um aspecto menos volumoso e restritivo, assim como os típicos corsets foram logo substituídos pelo brassiere, patenteado por Mary Phelps Jacob.
Por sua vez os Anos 20 chegaram para revolucionar o muno das lingeries ainda mais com seus aspectos mais masculinizados. Seus formatos não deram chance para os antigos volumes,mas o desenvolvimento de tecnologias em tecidos permitiram mulheres a vestir petticoats justos que as possibilitavam atingir a silhueta mais andrógina.
Entre 1920 e 1925, fábricas criaram uma nova versão mais leve, com tecidos mais frescos e confortáveis que funcionavam maravilhosamente sob os vestidos de tecidos fluidos dos anos 20 e 30.
Foi também em 1925 que os famosos camiknickers (camisolas costuradas a calcinhas) se tornaram populares entre o publico feminino,principalmente quando utilizadas sob vestidos mais curtos. Estas peças continuaram a ser vestidas até mesmo durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial quando as mulheres vestiram as calças e passaram a atuar em áreas de trabalho até então consideradas apenas masculinas .
(Foto: Joan Blondell em seus dias de pre-code-1930)
1930 foi caracterizado pelo espírito livre feminino que definiu as características das garotas pré-code. O Teddy, que era uma versão mais curta da cueca boxer masculina, virou símbolo de provocação. Adicione um par de saltos altos e esse era o pijama de moças sensuais.
(foto: Ilustração de Gil Elvgren -1950)
Quando se fala em lingerie dos anos 50 é quase impossível não pensar nas maravilhosas pin ups caracterizaram a época. Enquanto as mulheres continuavam a se vestir de um modo mais romântico, as Pin Ups revolucionam o mundo das lingeries com suas peças extremamente sensuais e provocativas. Seja um corset mais leve ou cintas-liga sob as roupas, elas se tornaram o símbolo do sex-appeal de toda uma época.
(foto: Lingerie -1966)
Em meio ao psicodelismo, o desenvolvimento da tecnologia na criação de roupas íntimas nos anos 60 permitiu que as mulheres ganhassem a oportunidade de escolher o estilo de sutiã que desejassem. A partir daí começamos a reconhecer os formatos mais modernos.
(foto: Lingerie -1977)
Cabelos volumosos, tecidos sensuais e um toque de marabou. Todos esses pequenos detalhes formaram a quintessência dos anos 70 além das típicas características da Era Disco.
(Foto: Cantora Cher- Anos 80)
Os anos 80 nos trouxe as tanguinhas e os famosos bodysuits muito característicos entre cantoras de rock da década. De todas, a personalidade mais famosa a utilizar esse look foi a cantora Cher.
(foto: Eva Herizgova – Campanha Wonderbra -1994)
A peça wonderbra se tornou ícone no corpo da belíssima modelo Eva Herizgova para o editorial ‘Hello Boys’ da Billboard. Na época, a foto da modelo ficou conhecida por causar diversos acidentes de trânsito entre homens desavisados.
( Foto: Adriana Lima – Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show)
Por fim chegamos aos anos 2000, que caracterizaram as lingeries atualmente. Desde o inicio, a marca Victoria Secrets trouxe lingeries delicadas e sensuais que se tornaram as queridinhas entre o público feminino. Todas passam a desejar não apenas as peças da marca, mas também o corpo das maravilhosas modelos que desfilam para a marca.
O Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show que acontece todos os anos pode ser considerado um dos maiores eventos de lingerie do mundo.
Rendas, tecidos leves, babados entre outras características definem as lingeries da nossa época, mas apesar disso, anos passam e novas tecnologias são introduzidas a cada nova coleção. Vale lembrar que a indústria da moda nunca deixa de buscar inspirações no passado, tendo como grande papel além de vestir, manter pessoas informadas sobre a história do vestuário feminino.
(foto: Campanha Fruit de La Passion – Studio Carlo Locatelli)
É uma pequena introdução ao fascinante mundo da Lingerie. A lingerie feminina está no imaginário masculino desde os primórdios. Porem foi a partir da década de 50/60 que começou a se formar o perfil moderno da lingerie de hoje, com a adoção do CONFORTO, PROTEÇÃO e SUSTENTAÇÃO ao soutien e Calcinhas, a partir dos tecidos e da modelagem até os acessórios que a compõem. As empresas DeMillus e DelRio tiveram tiveram papel importante no mundo da lingerie moderna.
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